If you’re looking for a place that’s pure unadulterated Italy, and a perfect blend of nature and culture – then these 5 villages clinging to this rugged coastline is just the spot for you.
What is amazing that despite the thousands of visitors who flock to these villages every year, they have miraciously not lost their authenticity and charm.
Life goes on as usual for the locals who still live and work in the vineyards, shops and restaurants, or head out in fishing boats etc… they still enjoy life in the same way as its been for centuries, somehow unaffected by the many tourists who invade their space for many months of the year. The food too is excellent and has not been tailored to cater to the masses.
A place where time has stood still and its a good thing!
All 5 of the Cinque Terre villages are accessible by train with the closest to Levanto being Monterosso, only a 5 min trip from station to station. You can also take a boat to the Cinque Terre from the Levanto Dock at the far end of the Lungomare (the seaside promenade). I suggest you try both – mix and match… and for an unforgettable experience If you really want to explore the villages in a unique way you must hike between the villages – there are trails linking all the villages and even all the way to Portovenere, so you can choose to hike to them all or just one or two.
MONTEROSSO – this is the most popular and largest of the villages with a population of about 1500. It is also the only Village accessible by car. The village is divided into 2 parts by the San Cristoforo hill with a tunnel linking the higher old town and the newer waterfront and promenade development. This is a bit of a resort village as its the only one of the five with a proper stretch of beach. The old town area is known for its lemon trees and anchovies and is a network of narrow picturesque lanes dotted with porticos and stairways. I much preferred the more low key and tucked away restaurants in this old town area to ones along the waterfront but wherever you eat you will not be disappointed with the local food.
VERNAZZA- this to me is the most spectacular looking village as seen from the sea or from above. The village stands against a backdrop of luxuriant vineyards straddling the rocky slopes overlooking the sea. It is the only village with a proper harbour and the centuries-old tradition of fishing, wine and olive oil production continue to this day. The harbour and waterfront is lined with restaurants and the tiny beach is ideal for cooling off if hiking from village to village. The Castel Doria built in the 11th century is built on the rocky spur that dominates the village and is testimony to the village as being a vital maritime base in the battle against assaulting pirates.
CORNIGLIA – Famous for its excellent white wine even as far back as Roman times this village is 105 meters above sea level and is the only village in the Cinque Terre that is not on the sea so there is no harbour. The houses are flatter and also slightly more apart than the other villages, but the views are just as spectacular. On 3 sides you will find vineyards and terraces and on the 4th a steep slope to the ocean below. There are many steep stairways that lead down to the sea including a 365 step one called Lardarina that connects the village to the train station below, there is a small road that runs from the station to the village and a small bus does trips back and forth for anyone not wishing to deal with the steps.
MANAROLA – Word has it that this may well be the oldest of the five villages, despite being the 2nd smallest and was founded in the 11th century, The local wine called Sciacchetra is especially renowned. This village is perched on a dark smooth rock 70 metres high. The tiny harbour is dotted with colourful fishing boats that are pulled up and parked behind one another along the ascending streets when the sea is rough. For incredible seafood and some of that local wine – you cant go wrong by stopping at il Porticciolo. There is a famous walking trail between this village and Riomaggiore called Via dell’Amore “loves trail”
RIOMAGGIORE- this is the Cinque Terre’s most eastern village. Which makes it the first stop on many visits. It is not as striking as Vernazza or Manarola but is very picturesque from the ocean side as the main street is like a steep ravine lined with restaurants, shops and bars.
A short walk through a tunnel will take you from the village to the railway station. The principal historic buildings in the town are the small Churches and Shrines in the village. There is also a botanical garden and bird watching centre higher up on the hill.
If you find yourself wanting to explore further south of the villages you can head to the city of La Spezia or you can head up north (about a 35 min train trip) to Santa Margherita, a more grand and glamorous seaside Resort town of a population almost 10 000 and from there you can bus it to Portofino one of Italy’s most famous and expensive seaside villages famous for its small harbour and association with the rich and famous.
