After hearing about Portovenere from a family friend who grew up in Liguria I just had to go see it for myself, and now after spending some time there If I had to choose one place to stay at along this spectacular coast line, that essentially forms the more southern part of the Italian Riviera, it would be here.
This spectacular Seaside Village has to be one of the best kept travel secrets around.
Portovenere is generally bypassed or used as a stepping-stone to the Cinque Terre villages just up the coast as the ferries from La Spezia pick up passengers here as they head up the coast to the Cinque Terre Villages, Levanto and Portofino further up the coast. The Cinque Terre may be more famous and are indeed spectacular in their own right, but if you’re looking for a place that captures the essence of the villages but offers more, then look no further – this is your spot.
Portovenere has more restaurants, hotels and accommodation options than most of the Cinque Terre villages…Accomodation options range from the Ritzy Grand Hotel to budget ones, and there are many B&B options, as well as rustic local rooms for rent overlooking the harbour, or along the narrow network of streets above the harbour. There are a few swimming options too.. from sandy beaches and coves to rocky outcrops and resort pools.
The main street in the town…Via Giovanni Capellini is a narrow intimate pedestrian only street accessed via a stone archway off the Circular Piazza Bastreri – here you can browse for hours in and out of shops, restaurants and cafes. What I loved is that you felt very attached to the town along here as it had artery like side streets leading up the hill to homes and apartments or down to the waterfront.
You can’t miss the the Gothic style Church of Saint Peter (built in 1198) perched on the cliff at the tip of the peninsula – I’m told its booked for weddings up to 2 years in advance and I can see why. The ruins of Castle Doria above the town is great for scenic views and offers a quite retreat from the busy waterfront below.
Two of my favourite restaurants in Portovenere were La Marina (not the cheapest but worth every penny) and Il Timone …but having said that the food was excellent at every place I ate. The small local cafe 2 doors down from where i stayed seemed to be the favoured early morning coffee and pastry spot for the local nuns ..not a bad habit
This whole area is a haven for boating and there are boat and ferry trips around the 3 islands – Palmaria,Trino and Tinetto just off the coast where you can see ancient marble quarries and sea caves …the largest island Palmaria feels so close you are tempted to swim across to it .. it has a few accommodation options as well as 2 really nice restaurants … iI Pozzale is on the far side of the island and not always easily accessible and it might be seasonal as well – so check before you go.
Portovenere is actually larger than it first appears and one is inclined to think its all just centered around the harbour area, but a 20 to 30 min walk away from the peninsula in the direction of La Spezia will bring you to more beaches, restaurants, Marinas and Hotels, as well as homes and apartments perched on the hill overlooking the bay.
On your way down the peninsula towards the Church you’ll find a doorway that will lead you down to Byron’s Grotto, a secluded bay area which is great for swimming and sunning on the rocks. Its named after the late poet, Lord Byron, who used to swim and meditate here in the early 1800s.
To really get a feel of the place and appreciate this spectacular location I suggest you spend more time there than just a day trip, and as mentioned earlier its ideal to use as a base for exploring the Cinque Terre, La Spezia, Lerici and the islands off the coast.
July & August are the busiest months and it can get very crowded so I suggest if you still want decent weather, plan your trip for June or September into early October. Its still fairly busy at these times, but you wont be fighting the crowds and waiting in long line ups at restaurants.
